All rents are due and payable, in advance, on the first day of each month. Monthly Bills will not be sent.

Payments should be in a check, money order, certified funds, online through your Tenant Portal, or certified funds (no cash will be accepted) and made payable to:
KELLER WILLIAMS REALTY
Attn: Joe Delgado
2403 N. Pebble Creek Pkwy. Ste. 101
Goodyear, AZ 85395
You can mail or deliver your payment to the above address. Please write your address on the payment to ensure property credit.All accounting is done by address of the property. To avoid any misunderstandings, please put your address on all correspondence with the office. Properties with multiple tenants please pay by one (1) check only. Multiple checks will not be accepted.

You may pay in person, during normal business hours, Monday through Friday 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. We do not accept cash or post-dated checks. Rents unpaid beyond the 1st day of the month are delinquent and are subject to a late charges as noted on the lease.

We offer an online service that is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You can access this service by login into your Tenant Portal.

If the rent is not paid by the 1st day of each month, we may begin legal proceedings to terminate your lease. You will be responsible for all legal and collection fees incurred by management’s efforts to collect the rent due. All charges unpaid by the end of the month in which they are accrued will be added as additional rent. If rent is paid while a legal action is in process, acceptance of rent will not necessarily stop the legal action. A separate agreement must be reached if legal action is to be stopped.

Included in your move-in package is a move-in/move-out checklist. Management provides this form for you to note the condition of the premises, listing all defective items before you move any items into the home. Please be as detailed as possible on this list. We will use this list as a move-out comparison list in order to determine your security deposit refund. Please sign your name, date it and return it to your manager or to the management office within five days of taking possession of the home.

Refer to your lease agreement to determine what utility services apply to you or the Landlord. Once you've determined the utilties that apply to you, be sure to have them switched to your name by the start date of your lease. Any applicable utility services not transferred to your name by the lease start date are suscptible to tenant charges.

When you first move in, locate the breaker box and note the ground fault circuit breaker (some of these are by the sinks in the house, not at the breaker box), where the stove, hot water heater and the air conditioner breakers are. Also locate the water shut off for the house. It is usually in the front of the house close to a spigot. Also locate the hot water shut off as well as the shut off under all the sinks. Locating these items now may eliminate any damages later.

First try resetting your circuit breaker. If that isn't effective, and a bathroom or kitchen outlet is affected, it could be a tripped GFI. The GFI is a "mini" breaker located inside an outlet within 10 feet of water (ie: a sink). This GFI "button" tends to be red with test/reset noted on it, located directly on the outlet cover. This prevents electrocution by shutting off power immediately if electrical current comes in contact with water.

A GFI is most likely located:

1. In the bathroom.
2. In the kitchen.
3. In the garage.
4. At the circuit breaker panel box.

Regardless of where it is located, it is likely that all the kitchen and bathroom circuits are hooked through this outlet. Builders generally install one GFI and then wire other outlets through it. Look in these areas for the GFI and be sure the reset button is depressed.

Replacing an outlet or switch is actually a very minor repair. With the power turned off to the area, it is not at all dangerous. The parts can be purchased for around $5 and the local hardware store can walk you through the steps to replace.

Garage door openers have a tension knob on the back of the opener which needs to be adjusted to the weight of the door. In the winter, wooden doors may absorb moisture thus making them heavier. This will result in the door operating with a "jerking" motion.

The tension knob is located on the back, side or front exterior of the opener. There are usually indicators that read "higher/lower" or "increase/decrease". Adjust this knob slightly to one direction, test the door, if that doesn't help, turn the knob the other direction, until you are satisfied with the door's function.

Remove any obstructions in the hinge/spring area. Most units have an automatic reversing feature in the event the door hits an obstruction.

Many units have an "electric eye" or sensor that may become obstructed. If so, remove the obstruction. At times these sensors may become misaligned. If the light on the sensor is blinking, it means the two sensors are not aligned and need to be adjusted to become aligned. Once alignment is made, the lights will discontinue to "blink" and the "obstruction" will be eliminated.

1. Most disposals have a "Reset" button on the bottom or side of the unit, this acts as a "built in" circuit breaker. Depress this button to reset the unit.
2. If step 1 does not help, try resetting the designated circuit breaker in your electrical panel.

Use an "Allen" wrench to un-jam the unit. This is a five sided tool ("L" shaped) that will fit into the bottom of the disposal ($2-$3 at a hardware store). With the unit turned off or unplugged, insert this into the bottom of the disposal. Move it clockwise and counter clockwise to loosen the jammed unit. Sometimes you can reach into the disposal and remove the item if it is large enough. Always Unplug The Garbage Disposal Before Reaching Into The Unit. Once you believe the unit to be clear of the jam, plug the unit back in and turn the disposal on to see if it rotates!

Pour 1 cup each of baking soda, salt & vinegar. Pour baking soda & salt into drain, immediately followed by vinegar. Let sit for approximately 15-20 minutes. As you wait, boil a pot of water. After the 15-20 minutes, pour the boiling water down the drain to flush the pipes out. Note: Do not use this remedy if you have already used a store-bought remedy in the same drain.

Fill an ice cube tray ½ full of vinegar and ½ full of water. Once the cubes are frozen, place them down the disposal 2-3 cubes a week for about a month and this will not only sharpen the blades, but keep your drain clean at the same time! (Lemon peels also work well for odors).

The furnace filter is an important component for the proper operation of a furnace. If the filter gets clogged, it will not allow the furnace to circulate properly, which can result in these symptoms. The blower door switch will automatically turn the unit off when the door to the filter is opened. You can simply replace the filter to save time and money!

Make sure nothing is closer then 18 inches from all output vents and intake grilles. To ensure adequate airflow NOTHING should be blocking them.

This usually indicates NO electricity is getting to the unit. Most furnaces installed in the last 15 years have a switch located on the inside of the front panel known as the blower door switch. The panel needs to be properly aligned and completely closed to activate this switch. The purpose of the switch is to prevent the furnace from coming on when you change the filter. If that doesn't solve the problem, make sure the thermostat is set to the temperature you desire and is set on automatic. Finally, check the circuit breaker or contact the gas company to check out your unit or relight your pilot light, the gas company will do this for free!

Check that the thermostat is not set on "fan". Some furnaces are equipped with a "summer switch". This is located on the side of the furnace and is used primarily in the summer months to circulate air throughout the home. Turn the switch setting to "OFF" to stop the fan function.

The local utility company may provide this service for free. Please contact them for assistance and ask if they will relight your pilot light. If they don't, please contact our Customer Service department and ORHP will dispatch a contractor to service your heating system.

If this is only happening while the hot water is running, refer to the water heater section on how to "flush" the unit. If it is coming from both hot and cold lines, it is most likely corrosion or rust in the pipes and that would require a contractor to correct. Under the Terms of our Plan, we do not provide coverage for chemical build-up or rusted pipes. Pipes must be actually leaking due to normal wear and tear to be covered under the Plan.

To eliminate the hammer is easy! Water hammer is caused by air being trapped in your incoming water line. First, shut the water off to your home at the main shut off valve. Open all the faucets and fixtures, both hot and cold until all the water is drained from the pipes. Then, with all the faucets still "open", turn the water valve back on to the home which will allow all the air to be pushed out of the pipes by incoming water. Then one by one, shut off each faucet and the hammer will be gone! If this does not resolve the problem, it could be related to high water pressure. If you have a pressure regulator, it is covered by Old Republic, so call us for service.

The pump may have stopped circulating because the water level in the pool/spa is too low. If the water level has dropped below the center of the skimmer, air may get into the system causing it to stop working well. "Re-prime" the pump by raising the water level in your pool/spa, then remove the pump lid and place a few gallons of water in the pump basket. After re-attaching the pump lid, open the valve under the pressure gauge on top of the filter. Turn your equipment on and when water sprays from the open valve, close the valve. The equipment should re-prime itself. You can tell the pump is working when the pressure gauge moves.

Clean the filter. If the filter is dirty it will cause an increase in pressure and will reduce the ability of the filter to work properly. Cartridge filters need cleaning approximately every 2 months. D.E. filters need cleaning 2-3 times a year.

Re-set the circuit breaker at the sub or main electrical panel. Pool/Spa equipment should be on its' own circuit. There may also be a GFI outlet at the equipment. (See electrical section for clarification about the GFI). Be sure it is in the re-set position. Spas may have a designated re-set button also.

Clean the filter. If filters are dirty it restricts water flow into the heater. Most heaters have a pressure switch that will not allow the heater to turn on unless the water flow (pressure) is sufficient.

If you have multiple stoppages in the home, i.e. toilet, sinks, laundry line, or any combination of these, this would be considered a "main line" stoppage and requires a plumber. Call our service department for assistance!

If you have a "slow drain" in a kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower or tub, this can be caused by food, hair and/or sludge build up and can be easily remedied. Pour 1 cup each of baking soda, salt & vinegar. Pour baking soda & salt into drain, immediately followed by vinegar. Let sit for approximately 15-20 minutes. As you wait, boil a pot of water. After the 15-20 minutes, pour the boiling water down the drain to flush the pipes out. Note: Do not use this remedy if you have already used a store-bought remedy in the same drain. This may have to be done 1-3 times to clear the line effectively.

We also recommend liquid drain cleaners (not the crystals). The liquid drain cleaners are not recommended on the kitchen sink if there is a garbage disposal as they have been known to damage the disposals. Make sure to follow the directions for maximum effectiveness.

With the exception of a mainline stoppage, almost all toilet stoppages can be cleared with a plunger!

A leaking flapper most likely causes both symptoms. This is the round "seal" in the bottom of the tank connected to the chain for the handle. When you depress the handle, the flapper pops up to allow the water in the tank to rush into the bowl and cause the toilet to flush.

The flapper is easily removed and replaced. The flapper costs around $2-$5 at any hardware store and will likely fix the problem. Be sure to remove the old one and match it up to the new one to assure a proper fit.

Once the flapper is replaced, adjust the toilet ball (ballcock) gently downward to lower the water level in the tank. Remove any toilet bowl cleaners from obstructing the flapper in the tank.

The chain may have come off the handle arm. Re-connect the chain. Don't forget the water in your toilet tank is fresh!

Chances are this is related to sediment build up. A "flush" of the water heater may be all that is required.

Follow these steps to flush your water heater:

CAUTION: The water is hot and there is danger of being scalded. Use caution and keep children and pets away from the area when flushing water heater.

1. Attach a garden hose to the drain valve (looks like a hose bibb) at the bottom of the heater. Run the garden hose either outside or to the nearest drain.
2. Open the drain valve, which will allow the water to drain through the hose.
3. When the water is running clear - after about 20 minutes - close the drain valve and remove the hose.
4. Turn on a hot water faucet in your home and let it run until all air bubbles are out of the line, then turn it off.

If the water heater runs out of hot water too quickly, increase the temperature on the water heater thermostat. If the temperature is set on the highest setting, flush the water heater according to the directions above.

Your pilot light may be out. Follow the instructions on the tank on how to light the pilot, or call your local gas company who will relight it for free!

If the unit is electric, it may have a reset button on the tank itself. Depress the button and if that doesn't help, try the designated circuit breaker in your electrical panel, it may have tripped.